Y’ALL I
SMOKED A BRISKET.
Lemme walk
you through it because it is a lot.
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| You exist, Reader. Right? RIGHT? |
Ok, so. Last weekend we did Passover at my house,
which I’m sure you know about, Reader, because you totally actually exist and
care very deeply about my life and my posts.
20 people coming over for a big involved dinner, and I decided smoked
brisket made sense as a life choice even though I have never smoked anything, I
don’t have the equipment, and I could totally have just baked chicken thighs…or
honestly scrambled eggs, or ordered take out; so long as people eat they’re
happy; the world was my oyster. And in
the oyster of my world, I decided smoking a brisket was definitely the most best choice and also probably going
to be fine.
Step one
here is that brisket is a traditional Passover dish, but I didn’t want the
traditional brisket I’ve eaten at other Passovers. Smoked brisket is super delicious and for me,
there really is no comparison.
So step two,
I turn to the internet.
The
internet, it turns out, has a lot of respect for a smoked brisket. There are upwards of one thousand million
website shrines dedicated to the art and science, the spiritual journey, the
rite of passage, the magic and mystery of smoking The Perfect Brisket. Most of them revolve around how manly it is…or
at least how part of the pay off is how much of a man you get to feel like when
your
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| Brisket is the Axe Body Spray of the culinary world |
tender, juicy brisket melts in the mouths of, I can only assume, hordes of
adoring ladies and their suddenly jealous, shaken men. It appears to be the food of all foods by
which your depths of strength, virility, and resolve are tested and found
true—or lacking. It is the culinary
equivalent of being calm in a burning house; it is menfolks’s equivalent to the
perfect dessert or just hosting the party in the first place.
So the
internet told me. Again, I don’t know
how to smoke things. My grilling
experience is limited to the first food service job I had at 14, Nick’s
Charcoal Grill, which used a real grill, and….nope, we’re done, really that’s
it. But every time I pan cook a steak I
set the fire alarm off, and that’s smoke, so I figured I’m half way there.
For the
second half, as I said, I went to the internet, and v quickly learned of the
importance of proper equipment. This
consists of a grill thermometer, which you should buy because apparently built-in
ones are garbage. Also you should have a
bad ass grill, which men around the nation already know is as important to have
in your house as toilet paper.
We do not
have that grill. We have _a_ grill. It is not that that grill.
It is…I think
the technical term is dinky, but certainly fine and has been the centerpiece of
countless backyard burger frenzies (I mean our grill doesn’t even have a built-in
thermometer but I promise you Reader, no one has died yet at a cookout
here). The internet informed me that
this lack was surmountable and if successful, my character would def level up,
but I’d be at a -5 and I might not make it back from this adventure.
And wood
chips and charcoal, and OBVIOUSLY a charcoal chimney, WHO DOESN’T USE A
CHARCOAL CHIMNEY, that shouldn’t even need to be listed in equipment because if
you’ve made it this far you have
OBVIOUSLY ALREADY GOT A CHARCOAL CHIMNEY. Also, you shouldn’t even be using charcoal,
except to start, because wood smoke tastes better. But wood chips are fine in a pinch if you
really insist on not taking any of this seriously.
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| Are you taking this seriously? |
And, of
course, the brisket itself. So I go to
the Kroger, and, as I mentioned I’m doing all this for Passover, so I need to
hit the butcher up anyway because I need a lamb shank bone (if you’re not
Jewish, Google it.). My Kroger, as I
have never noticed before, has a really pithy butcher. I mean, there’s a meat section, but the
butcher is more of a suggestion than a practical accessory, and that butcher’s suggestion
is, “why don’t you go buy some of our other prepackaged meat?”.
But this
guy, he says, “….What?”
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| He tried to sell me these. These are not what I want. |
Then I say,
I need a brisket. The briskets that they
have are only the flat, not the point.
(If you don’t know what that means, Reader, I will explain: It means “go
google how to smoke a brisket and you will learn an amount of meat lore you
were not prepared for that will enrich your life in ways you can’t even imagine
or in fact care very much about.) So I
have to buy 2 because I need ten pounds of meat to feed the absurd number of
people I am having over, plus a lamb….something, it has a bone in it…and I’m
ready to go.
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| This post is so long. I mean seriously, Reader, we're not even half way there. |
So the day
before Passover, I’m looking at all my spoils.
I need to eat that lamb, because I need that bone. I am going to smoke two square feet of
brisket on a two-and-a-liiiiiitle square foot grill. “Andy” is gone, I’m in this by myself, and
everyone arrives in about 30 hours. Deep
breath time.
I decide to
practice run smoking something in our grill- and I mean, I gotta cook that lamb
so—smoked lamb it is! I have, by this
time, purchased the wood chips, the charcoal (boooo, hisssss, use wooooood) and
the grill thermometer. Smoking the lamb
seemed like a good choice for the day before my brisket event—and it was. I will not run you though all the steps,
because if you are here, you also have the internet, but I will highlight some
important learning moments.
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| ...the internal temperature ....is declining.... |
Second, def
get the grill thermometer, I am not a wizard, how else could mere mortal people
know what temp the inside of their smokey, smokey grill is?
Third, I
apologize for my snide tone about the charcoal chimney—I get it now. The fire needs to burn, as mentioned above,
foreeeeevvvvvver. That means your
charcoal burns out way before the meat is done and you need to add more to
maintain the heat. All the websites (that
I
assume you have open in other tabs by this point) are very loud about how
your Grill Integrity is critical, you keep it closed as much as possible to
retain the heat and smoke. The temp needs
to be as consistent as possible (so leave it closed) and throwing new charcoal
on it is bad. New charcoal catches fire,
which is necessary for getting from the charcoal you start with to the charcoal
you want. But the fire process creates
more immediate heat, and much higher temperatures. So it’s bad.
It takes like 15-20 minutes to get to the ashy red delicious charcoal of
your dreams (more consistent heat).
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| Science! |
Enter the
charcoal chimney—you can just make the charcoal you want, before you need it
and more efficiently, in a contained space, and add it when it should go in. You should do this. It’s better.
I do not own
a charcoal chimney, and did not buy one in my prep—but in my practice run, I
came to respect it’s value.
However. I’m not going to buy a charcoal chimney,
because I am a stubborn jerk and I don’t understand why I can’t build one out
of tin foil. I Googled—no one else had
uploaded a successful aluminum foil chimney project, or even a failed project,
or a 'lessons learned', or a 'reasons why not'….apparently it just is not
done. This is probably related to how
easy it is to just go buy the thing itself.
Ok, not foil, fine (though I am still sure it would work if you really
committed…). But there were many posts
on how it’s really just a tin can and those are cheap.
(Reader,
YES, I know chimneys themselves are also cheap.
I know! I KNOW. They’re not expensive…but that’s dumb. Idk, it just is. It’s just a tin can. Sure, it’s got a fancy handle and a lever and
there are probably simple ones, but not at my local Home Depot day-of-my-disastrous-delicious-idea,
and also it feels like buying an ergonomic $20 bagel slicer when you already
have one, it’s called a knife. Anyway, I
didn’t buy one.)
So I, in my
infinite wisdom, went to Food Depot to find the biggest tin can I could find,
for the least monies. This turned out to
be full of field peas, fine, who doesn’t want a side of canned field peas at
their fancy brisket dinner? Nobody. Everyone agrees canned field peas and brisket
go together like bananas and peanut butter.
Perfect. I take that home,
can-open the ends off, and get my drill. It’s not just a tin can I need to create, it’s
a tin can with ventilation holes. (This is the point that you remind me yet
again that I could also just buy this thing for, again, not very many monies,
and also by the way why don’t we just own a church key can opener that can put
the holes I need in the bottom of the tin can?
But we don’t. So the drill. Plus then I get to use a power tool, extra points for me.)
Drilling
holes in the side of a tin can is not as easy as one (me) might expect, but it
is also perfectly doable when you have gone this far and are a stubborn jerk
and are this committed. It gets done. I own a charcoal chimney now.
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| Nailed it. |
Also worth
mentioning about the practice run on lamb: there are all theses little
holes? In our grill?? All the websites are very clear, you leave
your top ventilation holes wide open to let the smoke out, but you closely monitor the vent holes on the side of the
grill that let the air in. They exist so that you can regulate
temperature and create meat perfection.
Control of these vent holes is paramount; control of air flow into the
grill is paramount. It is the true test, Grill Integrity itself. It is how you achieve brisket and prove your
value as a man and a person breathing the air of this earth. You can not low-and-slow without tightly
controlled ventilation.
But our
(sweet, dinky, pithy) grill was made more for burgers and less for next-level
smoking
adventures. There are all these
holes in the grill that no one has ever noticed before (because who cares) that
are screwing up my capacity to control Grill Integrity (IT TURNS OUT I CARE). I discovered them over the course of the lamb
afternoon, and plugged them very professionally with the aluminum foil I didn’t
use to build a charcoal chimney. It works, it’s fine.
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| Nailed it again! |
So I eat ok
lamb (yum), learn a few things, I have a drink to get through the realization
of the path I have committed to, and I go to bed. Wake up, Sat morning, Dinner-minus-ten-hours.
Eight am I
dry rub (don’t you effing yell at me, internet, about not dry rubbing
earlier. Brisket is supposed to be
delicious all by itself and an hour is rumored to be fine for dry rubbing. I’m tired, I also
made all the sides and
stuff in the midst of trying to smoke lamb
yesterday, I cleaned the bathroom so my guests would be happy, I hid the shame
of our pile of junk mail, and I dry rubbed at eight am. If you’re mad, die mad about it). Fire starts
at 9 am. Meat slabs, that I (size-wise)
have eyeballed and strategized over how I make it work on our tiny grill
without just stacking them, goes on at 10.
My chimney is perfect and I challenge you to say something against
it.
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| I refer you to my above picture. |
Then begins
the all day wrestling match with trying to keep the temperature where it is
supposed to be. This is the part of the
struggle that real people who smoke meat can relate to. Because it is a struggle. I mean….over 220 is bad, under 200 is also
bad. That is a very specific
window. Then a piece of charcoal or a
wood chip flares up, and you don’t know it’s life, you don’t know it’s goals,
you don’t (I don’t) know what it’s trying to do, but everything gets hotter in
a way that makes you think “the fire is still going” but then actually means
“HA HA SCREW YOU I do what I want and then I DIE!!!”. Then you put more charcoal in cuz the temp is
too low …and then it gets way high. And
then you notice the grill leaks smoke (not from the vent holes, from the lid)
so you bring a 10 lb barbell out to put on the lid to weigh it down because…Idk,
that seems right. Then you notice there
are more tiny holes you didn’t plug because who the hell even puts that many
tiny holes in the side of a grill, nothing should be screwed in there, what is
happening? Then there is no smoke
because all your plugging put the fire out…so you add your carefully chimneyed
charcoal in, but then you realize the charcoal and wood already there wasn’t done it was just sleeping and now everything is at a super high temp so you pour
some water on it…and Jesus God are there more tiny holes you didn’t even notice
yet?! (There are.)
This went on
for a while.
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| I just...need...to rest. |
Resting is
this mythic thing that is apparently as necessary as bees to life on earth when it comes to smoking brisket. It involves keeping the
cooked brisket at an almost-but-not
cooking temperature for like…no kidding two hours. But it is different, somehow, from just
keeping it cooking for two more hours at the same or slightly lesser
temperature. Why? Because “rest”. It is the brisket’s self-care moment, and
people who know way more than me say to definitely do it, and it sounds super
dumb to me but, sure, fine, whatever.
You were right about the chimney.
I’ll try it.
We ate the
brisket. A brisket I smoked, in my
crappy grill, for like one hundred hours.
It was…delicious. It was not,
Reader, a brisket that a True Meat Smoking Apostle would have loved—it was
tougher than it should have been. But
not too tough…and the flavor was delicious. I even had bark (google it, non-smokers). It
tasted great, the dry rub was great, the mix of dry rub and vinegar and brown
beer I swabbed on it whenever I opened the grill was great. It was lovely, everyone ate it all and had
seconds, and I absolutely leveled up. I am a wizard and a sage. A worthy
adversary. A national treasure. A…novice smoker, who defeated a dragon and
knows (just a little bit) more than nothing and now I get to sit at the big
kids table and I have Become a Man.
BOOM.
















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